The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the path of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the London's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, moving from mannequin to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

If Enninful sounds wistful, he is in good company. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However since that time, Enninful perceives a significant change. "I believe, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."

A Perceived Regression

This regression is difficult to overlook: the rise of far-right politics, the backlash against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the late 90s, now a different political figure looms as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an badge of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the antidote has always been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of influential figures from music.

"People with a voice should use it," he says, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I believe this period will end."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He finds hope in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a pioneering career marked by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.

"When you ignore huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has established his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … all that gave me a unique perspective between worlds."

Defying the stereotype of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His life has involved challenges, including publicly shared battles with depression and substance use.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This determination to be typecast has inspired him beyond the world that made his name. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they lacked the traditional credentials," he observes.

The magazine 72 itself functions with a unique strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Edward of the 90s think of the Edward of today? He smiles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have underestimated me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."